Judge any vintage piece by its measurements, its disclosed condition, and the evidence for its age and authenticity, never by the tag size or the seller's adjectives. These principles hold on every resale site. The brand and era details are starting points to verify against dated examples.
1 The 60-second checklist
If a listing can't pass these seven checks, ask the seller or walk away.
- Measurements are listed. Chest, waist, length and the other key measurements for the category, not just a tagged size.
- Every flaw is named and photographed. "Great vintage condition" with no close-ups is not a condition report.
- The label is visible. Brand label, care or fiber label, and any size tag, in clear photos.
- The age claim has evidence. A decade should be backed by at least two clues (label style, zipper, stitching, fabric), not just "vintage".
- The price matches sold comparables. Compare against what similar items actually sold for, not asking prices.
- You know the return policy before paying. Many vintage sales are final. Know which kind this is.
- Authenticity is addressed for branded and luxury items. Ask how it was verified, and what the seller will do if it fails.
The rest of this guide explains how to do each check.
2 Reading a listing
A good listing answers your questions before you ask them. A complete one has all of the following.
- Title: era, brand or maker, item type, and a size or measurement
- Photos: front, back, brand label, care label, interior or lining, details, and a close-up of each flaw
- Measurements: taken flat, with the method stated
- Condition: a grade or plain-language description that names specific flaws
- Materials: fiber content, from the label if there is one
- Provenance or evidence: why the seller believes the era and brand are correct
- Policies: returns, shipping, and who pays duties on international orders
Phrases that should make you ask a question
| Phrase in a listing | What it can mean | What to ask |
|---|---|---|
| "Vintage condition" | Worn, faded or flawed, and the seller isn't saying how | Which specific flaws, and can you photograph them? |
| "Gently used" or "great condition" | Unmeasurable. Condition is subjective | Any stains, holes, odor, or hardware repairs? |
| "Rare" or "grail" | Marketing, not evidence | What makes it rare, and where are the sold comps? |
| "Fits like a [size]" | A guess | What are the actual measurements? |
| "Authentic" with no detail | An assertion, not a verification | How was this verified? |
| "Vintage-style" or "retro" | May be a modern reproduction | Is this an original from the era or a newer piece? |
| "No flaws that I noticed" | The seller may not have inspected closely | Did you check seams, lining, underarms and hardware? |
| Stock photos only | Not the actual item | Can I see photos of the exact piece? |
3 Condition
Sites and sellers use different grading words, so translate every description into this scale and judge the photos, not the label. If the seller uses their own scale, ask them to map it to these five levels.
| Grade | Common seller terms | What it should mean |
|---|---|---|
| Unworn | Deadstock, NWT (new with tags), NOS (new old stock) | Never worn, no flaws, original tags or unused stock |
| Excellent | Excellent, mint, like new, NWOT (new without tags) | Little or no wear, no visible flaws up close |
| Very good | Very good, gently used, light wear | Minor age signs such as slight fading or a tiny pull, invisible when worn |
| Good | Good, worn, visible wear | Noticeable flaws such as light stains, small holes or worn hardware, all disclosed |
| Fair | Project, as is, needs repair | Significant flaws or repairs needed, priced and described as such |
What to check in any condition report
- Fabric: holes, pulls, pilling, thin spots, moth damage, and "shattering" (silk or rayon splitting along folds)
- Stains: location and size, and whether they were treated
- Seams and stitching: loose threads, split seams, and underarm wear
- Hardware: zippers that stick or have been replaced, missing or swapped buttons, and worn snaps or buckles
- Lining: intact, torn, or replaced
- Odor: none, faint, or present (smoke, mildew and perfume are the hard ones to remove)
- Alterations: hems, taken-in seams, removed shoulder pads
- Fading: even, uneven, or sun-bleached
Flaw size language
Use these as a shared yardstick, and ask for a photo with a coin or ruler for scale.
- Pinhole: under about 2 mm
- Small hole: about 2 to 5 mm
- Hole: over 5 mm
- Spot: a small stain. Stain: a larger or set-in mark
- Pull or snag: a loosened thread on the surface
Two rules. A flaw not mentioned in the text but visible in a photo is a fair basis to ask for a refund or a lower price, though platform policies vary. And smell cannot be photographed, so ask about it directly.
4 Sizing
Tagged sizes mean little in vintage, because sizing standards changed across decades and countries and garments stretch, shrink, or get altered over time. Use measurements, always.
Step 1: measure something you already own
Lay a garment that fits you well flat and measure it. Compare those numbers to the listing's measurements, category by category. This beats any size chart.
Step 2: get the right measurements for the category
All measurements below are taken flat, with the garment unstretched. Double any waist or hip figure to get the full circumference.
| Category | Measurements to require |
|---|---|
| Tops, shirts, jackets | Pit to pit, shoulder seam to seam, sleeve length, body length |
| Pants and jeans | Waist, hip, front rise, inseam, leg opening |
| Skirts | Waist, hip, length |
| Dresses | Pit to pit, waist, hip, length, and shoulder if structured |
| Coats | Pit to pit, shoulder, sleeve, length |
| Shoes | Inside sole length, width at the ball, heel height |
| Bags | Width, height, depth, strap drop |
| Hats | Inside circumference |
Step 3: account for fabric and fit
- Non-stretch fabrics (woven cotton, wool, silk, denim) fit the measurements exactly, so there is no give to rely on.
- Knits and stretch blends can fit a range, but old elastic may be perished, so ask how it feels.
- Shrinkage: natural fibers such as cotton and wool may have shrunk over time. Trust current measurements, not the label.
- Shoulders and sleeves are hard to alter, while hems and waists usually are not. Weigh that when a piece is almost right.
- Model photos help only if the listing states the model's height and the size they are wearing.
Vintage sizing often runs smaller than modern sizing in the same number, but the gap varies by era, country and maker, so treat that as a warning, not a conversion.
5 Dating
No single clue proves a date. Look for at least two that agree, and treat the result as a range such as "1970s", not a year. If clues conflict, the newest original element sets the earliest possible date. Beware of replaced parts: a swapped zipper or button can make an older piece look newer.
| Clue | What to look at | What it suggests |
|---|---|---|
| Care label | Presence and wording | In the US, permanent care labels became required in the early 1970s, so a missing one can hint at an older piece, though many newer or imported items lack them too |
| RN number | A "RN" followed by digits on the label | Used on US-sold textiles from the 1950s onward. The FTC's public RN lookup shows who held a number, which can narrow a brand or era |
| Union label | ILGWU, UNITE or similar on US-made clothing | Points to US production before the mid-1990s to early 2000s. Label design changed by decade |
| Barcode on a retail tag | Printed UPC bars | Retail barcodes appeared in the mid-1970s, so a barcoded tag is later than that |
| Zippers | Metal teeth, nylon coil, plastic, and the brand stamped on the pull | Metal is common on older pieces, nylon and plastic coil became common from the 1960s on, but metal stays standard on denim and workwear |
| Stitching on tees | Single versus double stitch on hems and sleeves | Single stitch is common on tees made before the mid-1990s, but modern reproductions copy it |
| Country of origin | Wording on the label | Heavy US production through the 1970s, with growing production in Asia from the 1970s and 1980s on |
| Fabric | Fiber content and hand feel | Synthetics such as polyester spread widely in the 1960s and 1970s. All-natural content is more typical of older pieces |
| Printed copyright date | A © year on a graphic | Dates the design, not necessarily the garment, since the same print can run for years |
| Construction | Hand finishing, seam finishes, lining quality | Hand-finished details and bound seams lean older. Overlocked seams are common on later mass production |
Words that sound like age but aren't
- Vintage generally means 20 or more years old. Antique means 100 or more.
- Retro and vintage-style mean newer pieces designed to look old.
- Reproduction is a modern copy of a specific historic item.
- Deadstock is old stock that was never sold or worn, so it can be both vintage and unworn.
If a seller won't explain why they date a piece the way they do, treat the date as a guess.
6 Authenticity
You can't prove a piece is genuine from photos alone, but you can catch most fakes and mislabeled items with the same checks. The more valuable or counterfeited the brand, the more evidence you should require before paying.
Checks that work on any brand
- Compare to known authentic examples. Find several photos of genuine pieces from the same brand and era, and compare label font, spacing, stitching and placement. Use dated archive listings and sold records, not the seller's other items.
- Read the label like a document. Check spelling, letter shapes, and that the fiber content and country of origin make sense for the brand and era.
- Inspect hardware. Zippers, buttons, snaps and clasps should feel solid, be stamped or marked in ways consistent with the brand, and show wear that matches the rest of the piece.
- Check the stitching. Even, consistent stitching and neat interior finishing are typical of the real thing. Messy or uneven work on a premium brand is a warning.
- Look for serials, date codes and style numbers. Many brands use them, but counterfeiters copy them, so use them to look up a piece, never as proof.
- Ask for a paper trail. Receipts, dust bags, original tags, authenticity cards and provenance help, though they can also be faked or swapped between items.
- Use a third-party authenticator for high-value pieces. Pay for professional verification, or buy from sellers and platforms that offer it, before you commit to a large purchase.
Red flags
- A price far below comparable sold listings
- Stock photos, or blurry photos that hide the label and hardware
- Reluctance to share close-ups of labels, serials or stitching
- A seller with no history, or a mix of unrelated luxury items with no sourcing story
- A "guaranteed authentic" claim with no explanation of how it was verified
- Label details that don't fit the era claimed
Protect yourself
Pay through a method with buyer protection, keep every message and photo, and confirm the seller's return policy covers authenticity disputes before you pay.
7 Brand reference
Brand details are the part of this guide most likely to be incomplete or to shift as new research appears, so treat each row as a starting point and confirm against dated examples. The checks in sections 5 and 6 apply to every brand. This table adds what is specific to each.
| Brand or category | What to check | Era clues | Common traps |
|---|---|---|---|
| Levi's | Red tab, leather patch, button and rivet stamps, care label, "Made in" wording | A red tab reading "LEVI'S" in capitals ("big E") is found on jeans made before 1971. Lowercase "Levi's" followed. Most US production ended by the early 2000s | Modern reissues and Levi's Vintage Clothing replicas sold as originals. Replaced buttons or zippers |
| Champion | Tag design, "Reverse Weave" labeling, stitching on seams and hems | The tag and logo design changed repeatedly, so match the tag to a dated example | Old tags resewn on newer garments. Faded school prints from different years mixed up |
| Carhartt | Tag, union label if present, zipper brand, lining | Older US-made pieces carry different tags and zippers than later ones, so date from the combination | Date guessed from wear alone. Tags and hardware that don't match |
| Pendleton | Woven label wording, fiber content such as virgin wool, pattern and lining | Label wording and logos varied by decade | Newer pieces sold as old. Moth damage and felting on wool |
| Coach | Creed patch, stamp, serial or style number, hardware, leather condition | Production moved increasingly overseas from the 1990s, so "Made in" wording helps date a bag | Serial numbers copied by counterfeiters. Dried or cracked leather |
| Band, tour and graphic tees | Hem and sleeve stitching, blank brand on the tag, printed copyright date, print texture and cracking | Single stitch plus an older blank brand fits earlier pieces. The copyright year dates the design only | New prints on old blanks, "vintage-style" reproductions, artificially distressed shirts |
| Luxury houses (Chanel, Hermès, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and others) | Date codes or serials, stamps, hardware engraving, stitch quality, lining and interior finishing | Each house has its own coding system that has changed over time | Counterfeits that copy codes, and "authentic" claims with no verification |
Designer labels
These rows cover the designer houses most often listed on resale sites, checked against dated sources in October 2026. Serial numbers, date codes and chips only show when something was made. None of them proves a piece is real, and counterfeiters copy genuine ones.
| Brand | What to check | Era clues | Common traps |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chanel | Serial sticker and matching authenticity card, quilting that lines up across seams and pockets, CC turn-lock finish, chain weight | Serial stickers began in 1984 and codes grew from 6 to 8 digits over time. Bags from the 21A collection (2021) on carry a microchip instead of a sticker | A card number that doesn't match the sticker. A missing sticker isn't proof of a fake, but it needs other evidence and lowers value |
| Louis Vuitton | Date code on a leather tab or stamped in the lining, canvas pattern placement, heat stamp, stitching on tabs | Early 1980s codes are 3 or 4 digits. From 1990 to 2006, two letters and four digits give month and year. From 2007 to early 2021 the digits give week and year. Microchips replaced codes from about 2019 to 2021 | Treating a date code as proof. It is a production date, not a serial number |
| Gucci | Leather tab sewn along its top edge only, with the ® mark and lowercase "made in italy" on the front and two rows of numbers on the back | Pre-1990 tags may use hyphens or periods and all-caps lettering with no ®. The numbers are style and supplier codes, so they don't date a bag | A capital I in "Italy" on a modern tag, a tag stitched on all sides, letters mixed into the numbers |
| Christian Dior | Rounded leather tag heat-stamped "Christian Dior Paris", date code under the zipper tag, solid matte hardware | Codes run two digits, two letters, four digits. The letters mark the factory. In the last four, the 1st and 3rd give the month and the 2nd and 4th the year. Older tags are stitched across the top only, and the earliest bags have no code | On a Saddle, hardware that is shiny and light, or charms where the oval tag is smaller than the O |
| Fendi | Leather label stitched into the lining, a heavy FF buckle, FF blocks evenly staggered and woven in, not printed | No serial before 1980. From the 1980s to the early 2000s, a serial foil-stamped in the inside pocket. A color-shift hologram from 2004. An RFID fabric tag with eight sewn digits by about 2010 | A hologram and an RFID tag on one bag, a light buckle that sits flat, "FENDI Made in Italy" engraved on a recent Baguette reissue clasp |
| Prada | Triangle plaque reading Prada, Milano, Dal 1913, the notch in the R, an interior plaque, a zipper brand engraved on the back (Lampo, Riri, YKK, Opti or IPI) | Older interior plaques read "Prada Milano Made in Italy", newer ones "Prada Made in Italy". Leather bags use a ceramic triangle and nylon bags a leather one | "Milan" instead of "Milano", a straight right leg on the R, glued nylon seams, misspelled zipper brands |
| Balenciaga | Leather tab with a heat-stamped serial and season letter, interior plate, soft matte leather that crinkles, sueded handles and tassels | Plates read "Balenciaga_Paris" until about 2005 and "Balenciaga.Paris" after. Silver plates from 2001 to 2008 carry a 925 stamp. No season letter before fall 2003. Giant 21 hardware was phased out in 2012 | Shiny, stiff leather that never softens. Season letters A to D repeat across two years, so check the font and details too |
| Saint Laurent | Label wording and typography matched to dated examples, care and origin labels that agree with each other | Rive Gauche ready-to-wear dates from 1966, and labels may read Yves Saint Laurent or Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Ready-to-wear moved to "Saint Laurent" in 2012, though that date doesn't hold for every accessory | Judging a vintage label against today's retail label, a pristine label on a worn piece |
| Dolce & Gabbana | Mainline "Dolce & Gabbana" or the D&G diffusion label, Made in Italy and care tags that fit the era | The house dates from 1985. The D&G diffusion line ran from 1994 to about 2011, with a final collection in Spring 2012 | Calling a D&G label fake. It is genuine, just a lower-priced line than mainline |
| Roberto Cavalli | Which line the label names (Roberto Cavalli mainline, Just Cavalli or Cavalli Class), print quality, care tag details | The house dates from the early 1970s. Date by label family, print technique and runway evidence, not animal print alone | Just Cavalli priced like mainline, animal print treated as proof of brand |
| Ralph Lauren | Which tier the label names (Collection, Purple Label, Black Label, RRL, Polo, Lauren or Chaps), then the care tag and RN number | Recorded line dates include RRL in 1993 and Purple Label in 1995. Polo Sport branding appears from about 1990 | A label that looks older than the garment, Lauren or Chaps priced like Collection or Purple Label |
| Manolo Blahnik | Leather sole stamped with the brand, size and Italian manufacture, a neatly stitched insole label, a secure buckle and firmly set crystals on a Hangisi | Classic styles change little, so date from the sole stamp and box rather than the shape | Loose or glued crystals, a shoe sold as complete with no box or dust bag |
| Judith Leiber | The maker's stamp along the frame or near a seam, evenly spaced, with crystals firmly set | The stamp changed over the years, so match it to a dated example | No stamp on the frame, loose crystals or gaps in a pattern |
The Manolo Blahnik and Judith Leiber rows rest on lighter sourcing than the rest. For a high-value piece from either, use a professional authenticator.
Sources (opened October 2026): Chanel stickers to microchips, Madison Avenue Couture, Oct 5, 2021. Louis Vuitton date codes, Madison Avenue Couture, Mar 26, 2026. Gucci labels and tags, Yoogi's Closet, Feb 27, 2020. Dior authentication, Le Prix, Mar 5, 2022. Fendi Baguette authentication, Into Archive, undated (2026). Fake Prada bags, 1stDibs, Jul 15, 2022, updated Mar 13, 2026. Balenciaga authentication, Glampot, undated (2026). Sui Generis Authentication Library, September 2026 edition, for Saint Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli and Ralph Lauren. Manolo Blahnik Hangisi, The Luxury Closet, Jun 29, 2023. Judith Leiber originals, 1stDibs, Mar 22, 2022.
Labels and tags by brand
The label tells you which line a piece comes from, and that changes the price more than almost anything else. A real tag from a diffusion, licensed or outlet line is not a fake, but it should not sell at mainline prices.
| Brand | Tag or label to look for | What it tells you |
|---|---|---|
| Chanel | Serial sticker inside the bag, with a matching card | Bags from 1984 to 2021. From the 21A collection on, a microchip plate replaces the sticker |
| Chanel | Clothing label with a season code such as 04P | The year and season of the collection. 04P is spring 2004 (Sui Generis) |
| Chanel | "Chanel Boutique" on a clothing label | Older ready-to-wear. Collectors report the word was dropped around 1999 to 2000 (Vintage Fashion Guild) |
| Louis Vuitton | "Louis Vuitton Paris" heat stamp plus a date code | Where and when it was made. "Paris" is branding, not the country of manufacture (Sui Generis) |
| Gucci | Narrow black woven label, white GUCCI wordmark, MADE IN ITALY below | Clothing from the Tom Ford years, roughly the 1990s to early 2000s (Sui Generis) |
| Gucci | Leather tag reading "GUCCI Accessories made in italy" | Gucci Accessory Collection (GAC), launched 1979 and sold through airports and department stores into the early 1990s. Genuine Gucci, priced below mainline (LV Bagaholic) |
| Gucci | "Gucci Plus" | Made in Mexico in the 1980s under Paolo Gucci's own name. Gucci does not recognize it and won't repair it (PurseForum) |
| Gucci | Circle-G stamp or stud on the tag | Made for Gucci outlet stores (Yoogi's Closet) |
| Christian Dior | Date code under the zipper tag | Factory and month and year of production. Bags with no code at all are the earliest (Le Prix) |
| Fendi | "Fendissime" | Fendi's diffusion line, mostly seen on 1980s and 1990s pieces and credited to Karl Lagerfeld (1stDibs) |
| Fendi | Hologram sticker, or a fabric RFID tag with eight sewn digits | Hologram from 2004, RFID tag by about 2010 |
| Fendi | Sterling tag engraved 1925 with a serial number | The Selleria line, hand-stitched in Cuoio Romano leather. Not expected on other Fendi bags (Sui Generis) |
| Prada | "Prada Sport" or a red stripe logo | The sport line, introduced in 1997 and now called Prada Linea Rossa. Nothing from it predates 1997 (Sui Generis) |
| Prada | Small numbered factory tag inside the bag | A factory number, not a unique serial |
| Balenciaga | Interior plate reading "Balenciaga_Paris" or "Balenciaga.Paris" | Underscore until about 2005, period after |
| Balenciaga | Season letter on the leather tab | The season it was made. No letter before fall 2003 |
| Saint Laurent | "Rive Gauche" label | Ready-to-wear, the line launched in 1966 |
| Saint Laurent | "Saint Laurent Paris" label | Ready-to-wear from 2012 on |
| Dolce & Gabbana | "D&G" label | The diffusion line, 1994 to about 2011. Genuine, priced below mainline |
| Roberto Cavalli | "Just Cavalli" or "Cavalli Class" | Diffusion and licensed lines, not mainline |
| Ralph Lauren | Collection or Purple Label | The top tiers. Purple Label dates from 1995 |
| Ralph Lauren | RRL (Double RL) | The heritage line, from 1993 |
| Ralph Lauren | Polo Western, Polo Country, Polo Sport | Older Polo labels, found from about 1979, 1984 and 1990 |
| Ralph Lauren | Lauren Ralph Lauren or Chaps | Lower-priced and licensed lines |
| Manolo Blahnik | Sole stamp with brand, size and Italian manufacture | Every pair should have one |
| Judith Leiber | The maker's stamp on the frame or near a seam | Its style changed over the years, so match it to a dated example |
Secondhand labels worth knowing
These labels turn up on resale sites for far less than designer prices, and many are worth the search. Each row links to the source it rests on.
| Label | What it is | Era | What to look for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plein Sud | French label by Fayçal Amor, launched in Paris | 1984 on, peak in the 1990s with stores in New York, London and Madrid | Daring, sensual cuts and strong fabrics. Older pieces are sought-after archive finds |
| Morgan de Toi | French brand that began as a lingerie seller in 1947 | Early 2000s collections are the ones to find | Lacy tanks, ruffled slip dresses, two-piece sets and corset bags. Search "crochet", "lace" and "beading" |
| Vero Moda | Danish label from the Bestseller group | 1987 on | High-street prices, so buy it for the style rather than resale value |
| Patrizia Pepe | Tuscan ready-to-wear label founded by Patrizia Bambi and Claudio Orrea | 1993 on | Minimal, glamorous Italian silhouettes |
| Marciano | Guess's upscale womenswear line | 2004 on | Dressier than mainline Guess. Check that the label says Marciano, not just Guess |
| Guess heels | Shoes made under license for Guess, the LA brand founded in 1981 by the Marciano brothers | 1980s on | Licensed footwear, so judge each pair on its materials and condition |
| J.Lo by Jennifer Lopez | Jennifer Lopez's clothing line, backed by Andy Hilfiger's Sweetface Fashion | Launched April 2001, wound down from 2007 | Peak Y2K tracksuits, denim and going-out tops |
| Miss Me | Los Angeles denim and sportswear label | First collection spring 2001 | Young contemporary denim and sportswear, from casual to nightlife |
| Be & D | New York "punk modern" bags from Steve Dumain and Be Inthavong | About 2004 on | The Garbo, a studded bell-shaped lambskin satchel first bought by Bergdorf Goodman |
| Minelli | French shoe and leather goods brand | 1973 on. Went into receivership in 2023 and was revived as Maison Minelli in 2024 | Leather bags and shoes at mid-market prices |
| Sky | Los Angeles label from Peter and Jennifer Kaveh | Opened on Robertson Boulevard in 2002 | Its signature wooden and metal-heeled boots |
| Alberto Makali | New York womenswear designer with his own boutique | Active today, with older pieces on resale sites | "Feminine yet fierce" womenswear. He has dressed Jennifer Lopez and Carrie Underwood. Spelled Makali, not Malaki |
| Rhys Dwfen | Los Angeles knitwear label by Julie Kwon | Launched fall 2007 | Simple layering sweaters and knit dresses |
| Ema Savahl | Miami designer Ema Koja's label | 2000s and 2010s | One-of-a-kind dresses with hand-painted bodices, worn by Katy Perry and Sofia Vergara. Spelled Ema, not Ena |
| Venus | Jacksonville, Florida swimwear and lingerie catalog brand | 1984 on (as Venus Body Wear until 2000) | Swimwear and lingerie, the two things it is best known for |
| One Step Up | US apparel maker whose trademarks include Jonathan Logan, Cascade Blue and Red Star | Trademarks filed from 1950 (Jonathan Logan) to 2018 | Mass-market prices. Buy for style, not resale value |
Still to confirm, with no reliable source found yet: Here and There, the musical notes tag, Formul@ (it shows up as a resale brand but its origin isn't sourced), RPL, Mysterious by Fraucy, Spencer Alexis, oumanliying, Venice, Lissa Paris, Rafiana, Amazone, Anna Paul (beaded tops), MK Solo, Jaipur, Lapis, Natalie Chase. Add what you know about each, or a photo of its tag, and it can join the table.
For any brand not listed
- Search "[brand] label history" and look for dated archive pages and collector guides.
- Find at least three sold or archived examples from the same era.
- Compare label, hardware, stitching and fabric against those examples.
- If you can't find reliable dated references, treat the era and authenticity as unverified and price accordingly.
8 Price
A fair vintage price is what similar items in similar condition actually sold for, adjusted for the differences. Asking prices show what sellers hope for, not what buyers pay.
How to check a price in five minutes
- Find sold comparables. Search for the same brand, item type and era, and filter to sold or completed listings where the site allows it.
- Collect at least three. One sale can be a fluke. Three or more show a range.
- Adjust for condition. Price a piece with flaws below clean examples, and a piece in better shape above them.
- Adjust for size and wearability. Small or highly wearable sizes often sell faster and for more. Very large or very small pieces can sell for less.
- Add the real total. Include shipping, tax, duties and the cost of any repair, cleaning or alteration.
What pushes price up or down
- Up: a desirable brand, a sought-after era, rarity that can be shown, strong condition, a size many people wear, and documentation
- Down: stains or odor, repairs, missing parts, an obscure label, and an unclear era or origin
Price traps
- "Rare" without sold comps to back it up
- A "deal" that is cheap because it is fake or misdated
- Prices inflated by trends that may not last, so check whether recent sales still match the asking price
- Free or cheap shipping built into a higher item price
If you're serious about a piece, make an offer based on your comps and say so, politely, when you send it.
9 Buying safely
Protections differ by platform and change over time, so read the current buyer protection and returns terms on the site you're using before you pay. These habits help everywhere.
Questions worth sending the seller
Copy and paste what applies.
- Can you share the measurements for [pit to pit, length, waist, and so on]?
- Are there any flaws not shown in the photos, including odor, stains, or repairs?
- Can you send a close-up of the brand label and care label?
- What made you date this to the [era]?
- How did you verify that it's authentic?
- What is your return policy if the item doesn't match the description?
A good seller answers specifically and quickly. Vague, defensive, or missing answers are information.
Before you pay
- Read the return policy. Know whether the sale is final, whether you pay return shipping, and whether authenticity disputes are covered.
- Use platform payment where it exists. It generally gives you a dispute process that off-platform payment does not.
- Screenshot the listing. Keep the photos, description and price in case it changes or disappears.
- Keep conversations on the platform. Messages there can count as evidence.
- Check the seller's history. Look at reviews, how long they've sold, and whether feedback mentions accuracy and shipping.
If something arrives wrong
- Photograph it right away, including the label and the flaw, with the packaging.
- Message the seller promptly, calmly, and specifically about what differs from the listing.
- Open a dispute or return request through the platform within its deadline.
- Don't wash, alter or wear the item until the issue is resolved.
10 When it arrives
Inspect first, clean second, and don't wear it until you're sure you're keeping it. A return is usually only possible for an unworn, unwashed piece.
Inspect within the first day
- Compare it to the listing photos, flaw by flaw.
- Re-measure it flat and check the numbers against what was listed.
- Check the labels, hardware and stitching against what you were shown.
- Smell it, including the underarms and lining.
- Open and close every zipper, button and snap, and gently pull at seams.
If anything is off, go back to the steps under "If something arrives wrong" in section 9.
Cleaning by material
Always start with the label and the gentlest method, and test an inside seam or hidden spot first.
| Material | Gentle starting approach | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton and denim | Cold or cool wash, air dry | Hot water and high heat, which cause shrinkage and fading |
| Wool and knits | Hand wash cold with wool-safe soap, dry flat | Hanging when wet, which stretches knits. Agitation, which felts wool |
| Silk and rayon | Professional dry clean, or careful cold hand wash if the label allows | Wringing, direct sun, and any wash if the fabric shows shattering |
| Leather and suede | Specialist cleaner or conditioner, ventilated airing | Water soaking and heat, which cause cracking |
| Beaded or sequined pieces | Spot clean or professional cleaning | Machine washing |
| Unknown fabric | Spot test, then professional cleaning | Guessing |
Odor
- Light mustiness: air the piece outdoors in the shade, then try a breathable storage space with good airflow.
- Smoke or heavy odor: repeated airing, then professional cleaning for suitable fabrics.
- Mildew: treat quickly and carefully. Some fabrics and finishes will not recover.
Storage
- Store knits folded. Hang structured garments on wide, padded hangers.
- Keep pieces out of direct sunlight and away from damp.
- Use breathable cotton bags rather than plastic for long-term storage.
- Check wool and fur regularly for moth activity.
11 Glossary
| Term | What it means |
|---|---|
| Vintage | Generally 20 or more years old. Sellers sometimes stretch this, so check the evidence |
| Antique | 100 or more years old |
| Deadstock / NOS | Old stock never sold or worn. Can be vintage and unworn at once |
| NWT / NWOT | New with tags / new without tags |
| Retro / vintage-style | A newer piece designed to look old |
| Reproduction | A modern copy of a specific historic item |
| Made-to-look-old | New items that are pre-faded or distressed to imitate age |
| Tagged size | The size printed on the label, which may not match the measurements |
| Pit to pit | Flat measurement across the chest from one underarm seam to the other |
| Flat lay | A garment photographed or measured laid flat |
| Rise | Distance from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband |
| Inseam | Distance from the crotch seam to the hem along the inside leg |
| Single stitch | One visible line of stitching on a hem or sleeve, common on older tees |
| Selvedge | A tightly finished fabric edge, often visible on the inside seam of older denim |
| RN number | A US registration number on a textile label that identifies a company |
| Shattering | Splitting of silk or rayon fabric along folds or stress points |
| Dry rot | Fabric or leather breaking down with age, often cracking or crumbling |
| Provenance | A documented history of where an item came from |
| Sold comps | Prices of similar items that have actually sold |