By Foundry’s curation team — the people who condition-grade and authenticate every vintage piece before it’s listed
There’s no public database where you can enter a blind stamp and get instant verification, since the system exists purely for Hermès’ internal manufacturing records. That single fact trips up more buyers than almost anything else about Hermès authentication.
Counterfeiters have gotten good enough at Hermès specifically that no single detail is reliable on its own anymore. Authentication here means reading the blind stamp, the stitching, and the leather as three independent signals that all have to agree — plus a handful of smaller details, like lock-and-key matching and the fact that Hermès doesn’t include an authenticity card, that most guides skip entirely.
If you’d rather start from a bag that’s already been through this process, browse Foundry’s vintage handbag collection — every Hermès piece we list has been checked by hand first.
What a Complete Blind Stamp Actually Contains
The blind stamp is Hermès’ internal manufacturing mark, pressed (not printed) into the leather, typically near the base of a strap or close to a side seam. A complete, genuine blind stamp contains a letter or symbol indicating the year of manufacture, and — depending on the era — a stamped indicator of the artisan or workshop who assembled the piece.
How the Shape Changes by Decade
| Era | Stamp Shape | What It Signals |
|---|---|---|
| 1945–1970 | Plain letter, no surrounding frame | Earliest post-war production; letter alone indicates the year |
| 1971–1996 | Letter enclosed in a circle | Mid-century through late-20th-century production |
| 1997–present | Letter enclosed in shape that varies by year (squares, ovals, and other frames) | Modern production; shape changes are year-specific |
The Detail Most Buyers Get Backwards
Hermès bags do not include an authenticity card. Unlike Prada or Chanel, Hermès has never used this system. If a “vintage Hermès” listing proudly includes a certificate or authenticity card as a selling point, that’s not reassurance — it’s a red flag.
This Is Where Craftsmanship Has to Earn Its Keep
Hermès is known for saddle stitching, a hand-sewn technique using two needles that produces an even, slightly raised seam visible on both sides of the leather. Genuine Hermès leather — Togo, Clemence, Epsom, or another house leather — has a specific hand-feel and grain pattern consistent with its type.
Lock and key numbers should match. The numbers stamped on the lock and on the accompanying keys should match each other, and the clochette should fit its strap cleanly. For Birkin and Kelly buyers specifically: the toggle or turn-lock mechanism should turn with smooth, consistent resistance.
For pieces beyond the bags themselves, Foundry’s accessories collection includes vintage Hermès scarves and small leather goods that go through the same hand-check process.
For Collectors Chasing Something Specific
Cross-check the blind stamp shape against the leather type and hardware finish typical of that window before you commit. Our best-selling vintage pieces is worth a browse even if Hermès isn’t the only house you’re considering.
Where to Get a Second Opinion
Every vintage Hermès piece Foundry lists has been inspected by hand — blind stamp, stitching, leather, lock and keys — before it goes up for sale.
Reading the Whole Bag
| Signal | What Genuine Looks Like | What’s Suspicious |
|---|---|---|
| Blind Stamp | Crisp, evenly pressed, correct shape for the claimed era | Shallow or crooked pressing, shape mismatched to era |
| Stitching | Even, slightly raised saddle stitching visible on both sides | Flat machine stitching, inconsistent stitch length |
| Leather Quality | Grain and hand-feel consistent with the named leather type | Wrong texture, unnatural wear, plastic-feeling finish |
Every piece in Foundry’s latest arrivals has already been checked against this exact process, blind stamp to lock number, before it’s listed.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you check a Hermès blind stamp? Locate it near the base of a strap or a side seam, and check that it’s crisply and evenly pressed with consistent depth.
Do Hermès bags come with an authenticity card? No. Unlike Prada or Chanel, Hermès has never issued authenticity cards with its bags.
How can I check if my Hermès bag is authentic? Check three independent signals together: the blind stamp, the saddle stitching, and the leather.
What does the Hermès date code / blind stamp actually mean? It’s an internal manufacturing mark, not a public serial number.
Where can I get a Hermès bag professionally authenticated? Reputable third-party authentication services specialize in this. Alternatively, every vintage Hermès piece Foundry lists has already been hand-inspected.
Ready to shop? Browse Foundry’s vintage handbag collection for Hermès pieces that have already been checked, stamp to stitch, before they’re listed.